Inside The Heart Of Chile

   I wanted an intimate and personal experience with Chile and that is exactly what I got in Vicuña. Coach surfing struck out again and I found myself in a beautiful family home decorated with antique furniture and decked out with a large pool. My gracious host Ignacio gave up his room for me and made sure my stay in Vicuña was perfect. I definitely stayed at the right place to get to know the area. Ignacio's family has been there for generations and his grandfathers house, which his dad was born in, now serves as a museum that depicts the olden day life and times. The house has a huge garden full of delicious avocados that I got to enjoy on a daily basis and many bright rooms full of photographs of his family. I could sense, even from the photos, the generosity and charm of all the generations that is still so present today. 

   It was no surprise that Ignacio also had great friends. On our first day together we gathered the troops and headed towards the springs. We found them completely dried up so we went to the river instead. The afternoon was perfect as I got to cool off from the blazing sun with a river to dip into and great company to practice my Spanglish with. That evening the boys decided to cook up a BBQ with tons of varieties of meat. As per my request, we headed to the mountainside and set up right underneath the glorious night sky. This place is well know by astronomers because of the visibility and clear nights that the area has so much of. For good reason too as I don't think I've ever seen a more lit up sky in my life. The Milky Way was stunning and ran straight to outer space. Eating delicious BBQ meat accompanied with local Chilean red wine made the experience even more memorable.

   On my final day Ignacio took me rock climbing. He runs a government supported project to give local kids a chance to get to know the great outdoors by rock climbing and to teach them about sustainability. We had such an amazing day with the chicos and everyone got tons of exercise! We were in the middle of the dessert full of cacti and rugged hills. Somehow there is a channel in one of the rock formations full of wholes perfect for our days activity. The scene was beautiful with tons of unique rock shapes and sizes. My major challenge of the day was climbing into a rock formation shaped like a heart. After about 20 tries I finally managed to get into it. The whole time everyone was cheering me on and motivating me to keep trying. From within the heart I knew I found something really special. Here was a group that cared for its people and loved everything else around them. They are determined to make a difference through their actions filling our world with hope and love. The message is beautiful and something me need more of. I encourage you to participate in this movement in any way that speaks to you. 

With lots of love,

Luba

The River

Vicuña is full of grapes for pisco, wine and just to enjoy as a snack!

the pool :)

Chapel Pisco Reserve:

cactus in the dessert

rock climbing fun

23-25 Jan 2014

Colours, Coasts and Contrasts

   So Chile really started to grow on me. The shift took place when I started couchsurfing. It certainly is true that the people around you are huge influences of the experiences you have. To say my hosts have been generous would be an understatement. They opened up their homes, shared their meals, their stories, and even provided me with a place to stay. All of them were happy to show me around and took me to all the local hot spots. But most importantly, they brought my faith back for the couchsurfing system and reminded that there are great people everywhere.

   The country just keeps on surprising me. As soon as I got to Valparaiso I knew another shift had taken place. Everything around me was beaming with colours and describing it as graphite does not even begin to give it justice. There are paintings covering whole walls or sometimes entire buildings. Fairies, hearts, and creatures roam the streets bringing the city to life. Every hidden stairway or nook in the wall leaves you amazed with a new art piece. The place was truly enchanting and left my head dizzy with colours and hungry for more.

   My evening in Valparaiso took another unexpected turn. Without even knowing it I agreed to dine in a posh and elegant restaurant. Here I am strolling in in my genie pants and a backpack and seated at a white linen table with lots of cutlery. A similar experience a few months back would have been a treat but now I felt a bit out of place. The large bill was dwelling in my mind and the whole atmosphere was making me a bit uncomfortable. Thankfully the food and wine was delicious and the portions human sized. We were out of there straight after dinner in search of some live music which we found plenty of. I've always liked Spanish music and it was really cool to watch an open mic night at a low key local pub. It was a late night full of great entertainment and a taste of city life I nearly forgotten about.

   The next day I needed a place to relax and conveniently Valparaiso is positioned right next to chill Vina Del Mar and as the name suggestions it has a great beach. It's easy to spend hours walking along the coast trying all the hot empanadas, ice cream parlours, and milk shake vendors. Or, of course, you can find yourself a nice spot to settle down in, feel the heat of the sun, and cool off in the Pacific Ocean when the time feels right. Either way, I promise you'll enjoy yourself here!

Valparaiso:

Viña Del Mar

21-22 Jan 2014

Volcanoes, Lakes, and Waterfalls in Chile

   The unofficial name of the Lake District was given to this region because of course there are tons of lakes. Yes, the lakes were nice but what made this the place really memorable for me was the many volcanoes, hot springs and waterfalls! I know I haven't seen all of Chile but I have a feeling this might be the highlight of the entire country for me!

   With my funds running much lower than my desires I needed a knew plan. Half my small daily budget was spent on hostels so I decided to ditch the cost of accommodations and trade in my dorm room bed for a couch. The generosity of the Chilean people blew me away and as I found myself in private well equipped rooms and later an entire cabana all to myself! How you might ask? Well, it was the magical couchsurfing website where strangers meet and offer each other a place to crash. Yes it does take major trust on both parties but considering I've already given up my entire normal life to go travel I thought it would be a good idea to really take the opportunity to get to know the locals and ditch my hostel English for some well needed Spanish time.

   My first host contacted me after seeing my public request on the website. Leo picked me up at the casino, which of course was a very appropriate meeting spot for my first South American couch surfing experience. I must have drawn pocket aces because he showed me to my private room in his comfortable house and volunteered to drive me around showing me all the amazing attractions around the great city of Puerto Varas. On top of that he won my stomach over when he cooked a killer beef steak on his BBQ coupled perfectly with a few bottles of red Chilean wine. We shared many laughs, interesting conversations, and great memories during our short 2 day stay together. My favourite moment was the scenic picnic we enjoyed surrounded by majestic waterfalls and a spectacular view of the volcano.

   Luck struck out again when I showed up at the Pucon bus station to meet Edwin who also asked to host me after reading my public message on the couch surfing website. My writing must be amazing because this time I had a private double decker cabana that he built with his own 2 hands equipped with a kitchen, dining area, living room, ensuite and, my favourite, a killer queen sized bed! To sweeten the deal I even got to play with his 6 kittens and 2 dogs.

   Edwin was a graceful host who took me on an extreme bike ride and introduced me to all the great local delicacies. In his company I tasted choco (baked grounded corn with meat), mote (a cool peach drink with oatmeal bits) and vino con melon which is white wine served in a melon with sugar and ice. His specialty though was a delicate slow cooked cordero (lamb) over a fire perched up on a massive blade. It was so good I needed 3 meals with it in different variations to feel satisfied.

  My mornings started with a wake up call from the lovely rooster Edwin keeps in his yard. At least I had fresh eggs for breakfast from his 2 lady friends that served as my key ingredients for my delicious omelettes. There was so much to explore around Pucon I was thankful for the early starts. Edwin introduced me to Stacey, who became my BFF for the 4 days we had together. This stunning woman was built for adventure and participated in 8 ironman races and gave me a real challenge in keeping pace with her physically. She was great company for exploring the countless waterfalls and lakes in the area and it was a nice bonus that she had a car. Our mischievous duo tackled hours of hikes, runs and swims in the stunning area of Pucon. She took me to my new favourite man made place called Geometricas, a stunning collection of hot springs in a valley filled with greenery and cold waterfalls. As I melted into the hot baths I was overwhelmed with joy and gratitude. I reflected on all the amazing experiences I've had so far on this trip and I haven't even reached the half way point. I just love being high on life!

Geometricas Hot Springs, Pucon

 

Osorno Volcano, Puerto Varas

Pucon Area

local craft booth

Ojos de Caburgua

3 Saltos

3 saltos

Puerto Varas 14-16 Jan 2014

Pucon 17-20 Jan 2014

The Long Journey in Chile: Punta Arenas and Castro

   My last week in Chile had been interesting to say the least.  I had a forced layover because there were no options of getting out of Puerto Natales to head North. You have to go south to Punta Arenas then through the east coast of Argentina (yes very much out of the way!) just to get to central Chile. I had no idea that was the only route or I might have reconsidered my options. I had 2 nights in Punta Arenas so I made the most out of it. The city was full of old well maintained 19th century buildings that I invited myself into through back doors. They are now converted into restaurants, hotels, municipalities and museums. The atmosphere was enchanting and straight out of an old movie with elaborate decor, shiny chandeliers and exquisite china. I love wondering into places with so much history and I imagine myself in a long flowy dress arriving in a carriage to the ballroom for an evening of dance. How different life would be with no internet and no planes or buses that I seem to spend so much time on!

   When I say so much time I really do mean it. The last bus I took from Punta Arenas to Castro took 36 hours! This was your normal Grey Hound bus with no bells or whistles to make it comfortable and I didn't even get a window seat which keeps me entertained for hours on end.  The old me would have been horrified with nothing to do and no where to go for so long. The new me just took it as an opportunity to catch up on sleep, practice my Spanish with duolingo (download this app to have fun while learning a new language), read, and make my official new years resolutions.

   The original plan was to travel to Puerto Montt for the night but the bus was on its way to Castro which was my next destination. I decided to take my chances and stay on the bus for another 4 hours. It took many seat shuffles as people kept coming on with an actual ticket for the last leg of the journey. I remained flexible and in the end I got there. I didn't have an address or the internet to find out where I was going as of course I hadn't planned this. I walked the streets looking lost till a nice lady asked me if she can take me to a hostel. To my delight I had an ocean view private room for only $14, which is half of what my original hostel was going to cost.

   Castro is a district on Chiloe island which is known for its stilt houses built on water. When you are inside one of these palafitos it's easy to forget that the ocean is alive right underneath your feet. The most amusing part of Castro was the giant Barbie themed church. This bright yellow and pink structure stands beside many jumping castles and looks like it fits right in with the other toddler amusements. The kid in me was delighted at the great color scheme of the church. I think it's important to allow our inner child to come out to play every so often so thank you Castro for entertaining mine!

Punta Arenas

Punta Arenas

Punta Arenas

Punta Arenas

I love this: make plants not cities

My amazing 36 hour ride!

The barbie church in Castro

palafito houses in Castro


9-13 JAN 2014

Torres Del Paine

   My main new years resolution was to stop worrying so I can focus my energy on living my life to the fullest. Chile, so far, seemed to be a series of misfortunate events and really put my patience and new years goals to the test. My hostel was overbooked, the ATMs had no money, buses were full for a week to get to my next stop and most of all the towers of Torres Del Paine were not to be seen. I handled the circumstances with laughs and kept reminding myself that everything will work out. Instead of worrying I calculated the worse case scenario, excepted it and then felt blessed when the outcome was better than that.

   Many of us set ourselves up for disappointment by having expectations for matters outside of our control. This happens when things don't work out as we planned and I'm trying to eliminate it from my life, however at times it can be a bit tricky. Torres Del Paine is a perfect example of just that. My sole purpose of coming to Puerto Natales in Chile was to go to the national park and witness for myself the glorious sight of the torres towers. The day started off grim at 6:30 am with rain and dark clouds. I kept positive and my fellow hikers nicknamed me the cheerleader. The hike was 9 km each direction and was almost never flat or easy. The rain quickly turned into snow with the increased elevation and the visibility was nothing to get excited about. When we reached the 8th km and were only 30 minutes from the lagoon, where the Torres towers stand, we found out the rest of the trail was closed. Determined to follow through we climbed over the barring and continued onwards. A few minutes later we were stopped by the park rangers that informed us that the closure was due to weather and for our own safety. Disappointment flooded in and it took me the entire 8km down to snap out of. I started concentrating on appreciating what I experienced like the many waterfalls I passed, the beautiful valleys with amazing fauna and the fresh snow on my nose. As soon as my mood changed my luck did too. In the parking lot I met a russian couple with a car. They invited me to drive around the lakes with them to check out the rest of the park. I happily jumped in and we spent the remainder of the evening snapping photos of all the beautiful scenery. Good things happen when you have the right attitude because you attract into your life what you give out.

   Two days later I decided to give the park another go. This time I excepted the worse case scenario which is I will leave without seeing the Torres. I got to the park and the clouds were thick and dark over the peaks. I opted out for a different hike that is shorter so I can at least be entertained by different scenery. This time I was on my own and loving it. The sun was shinning on my side of the park and the guanacos kept me company. There were many herds of them and I witnessed their life cycles from babies nursing, then learning to walk, to getting chased by boys, getting caught by the males for some action, and the inevitable end that comes to us all at our own time. Again I realized that life is beautiful but short. You need to enjoy what you are given instead of concentrating on the things you don't have. I never did see the peaks of the Torres but that just means that I might have to come back. Maybe I'll even do the W trek or the O next time. I choose to view my set backs as opportunities, to live without worry and to eliminate my expectations for all things I can't control. I hope you find the inspiration to do the same.

5-8 JAN 14

El Calafate and The AMAZING Glacier

   I started off my New Year with a car chase through the highways of Argentina. Unlike any other place in the country El Bolson, the tiny hippie town, has 2 bus terminals. I realized this 20 minutes after my departure time and of course I was at the wrong station. "Vamos!" Instructed the cab driver as I lugged my backpack back into the boot of the car. The next 30 minutes zoomed past as we swerved onto the opposite lane to pass all vehicles. I saw my life flash by a few times and honestly I was very satisfied. When we finally caught up with the bus the cabbie hailed him down by flashing the emergency lights and then stopping abruptly in front of him. Well, it wasn't the most conventional way of catching a 25 hour bus ride but it worked and it only cost me an extra $10 USD.

   The next day I finally got to El Calafate. This place was my most southern stop on my itinerary and I was more than satisfied because I got to see an amazing glacier! The Perito Moreno Glacier was very impressive and way bigger than I expected. It stretched out for over 30 km in length and 5 km in width and one of the few glaciers that is actually growing. The ice was multi coloured with white, deep blue and brown and spiked out in all different directions. Chunks snap off in thunderous thuds without any warning and the bigger pieces even create huge tidal waves. I felt like I was back in the ice age as I watched the natural wonder from the boat. Icicles floated by and sharp mountains with snow peaks created a winter wonderland all around us. I certainly dressed for the occasion with 2 pairs of socks, 2 pairs of pants, 2 shirts, 2 sweaters, a jacket, hat and scarf. By the end of our hike through the platforms I was down to 1 layer over my undergarments and still sweating.

   On the other days at El Calafate I enjoyed lagoon walks occupied by pink flamingos and other beautiful birds. The evenings were spent eating delicious meals accompanied by red wine. We made chorizo fried rice 2 nights in a row because it was so good just once wouldn't have been enough. For my last supper in Argentina we went for a traditional dish from the area which was served in a large black pan all juicy and sizzling inside. We ordered a mushroom, lamb and bacon dish and a beef, bacon and cheese combo. Both were overflowing with vegetables and sauce and served with fresh home baked bread. Of course to complement the dish we had great red wine from the region and lots of good conversation. Argentina has been such a treat but now I'm ready to spice things up with a bit of Chile!

1-4 JAN 2014

Feliz Año Nuevo! (Happy New Year!)

   Many people say that the way you bring in the new year rings in the rest of the year. I guess that means I'll have a dancing, foodiefull, Spanish year. It's a good thing because I'm really enjoying myself! In El Bolson the atmosphere is both chill and chilly. The town is run by good old hippies and is dominated by a holistic and organic way of life. The hostel La Casona de Odile is the most gorgeous I've seen so far. It's on a river bank tied in by bridges and hammocks with nature over flowing on both the in and the outside. The place was built by an artist with the vision of bringing people together which is evident in the many fire places and cozy common areas perfect for a New Years celebration.

   The night was a huge success with an amazing potluck dinner offering everything from home made pizzas, vegetarian tarts, fresh bread rolls, curry chicken, quiches, roasted pork, and many salads. My addition of baked potatoes with mushrooms and cheese, again, went very fast. The main attraction was the home made punch I was sipping all night and of course dessert, which consisted of 2 different types of dolce de leche cakes, plum crumble and chocolate cherries. What a sweet way to bring in the New Year!

   I spent most of the night dancing or going for walks in my beautiful surroundings. I feel in tune with nature and the people around me. Letting go and just feeling life roll feels so natural. It's a fine balance between stirring yourself in the right direction and allowing the flow of meant to be. Stay open, keep positive and let your worries blow away with yesterday's year. Feel the present and enjoy what life gives you. Feliz año nuevo!

31 DEC 13